Tapestry Crochet Potholder – 8bit SuperMario – Free Pattern

Tapestry crochet potholder




Tapestry Crochet Potholder

Have you ever tried tapestry crocheting a potholder? If not, then now is definitely the time! It’s super easy and so much fun! Tapestry crochet is kind of like fair isle knitting, except the pattern is identical on BOTH sides. So perfect for potholders.

The technique for tapestry crochet is fairly easy, in a few words: You crochet over the yarn color you are not using. That’s it! It looks intimidating, but it’s really not. I’ll show you a few tips, like color changing and adding a new color.

The colors you are not using will show when you dominant color is white (or very light), but I don’t think this is a problem – it adds debt into to finished work. And the colors showing trough is very subtle:

Tapestry crochet potholder
You see the green and black “shadows” behind the white stitches?

Tapestry crochet is great for geometric patterns! Seriously, google it, there is some amazing artist-crocheters out there.




Choosing the pattern

You can choose what ever pattern you like! But there is a few restrictions when it comes to the tapestry crochet potholder. For one it’s made from fairly few stitches, it’s only 44 stitches in width. And one stitch is one “pixel”, so either choose a very simple picture or a geometric pattern.

For my tapestry crochet potholder I chose the 8-bit SuperMario mushroom. I grew up playing SuperMario Bros. on my Nintendo entertaining system and I always loved it. But other than that, the original game was made in 8-bit (This just means one pixel is made up of a 8-bit byte, not important). But this means it’s quit pixellated so it’s very easy to convert to a chart.

When I make a pattern I open up Excel (yes I know there are some great software out there, but I like the simplicity) and decide how wide my pattern should be. Then I make the cells smaller so it’s little even-side squares. Then I just fill in the small squares with colors so they make up the pattern I want, like this:

Tapestry crochet potholder chart




Changing colors

Changing colors so it is “seamless” is also quite easy. The last stitch of color 1: Insert hook in the center of next chain, yarn over, draw color 1 through stitch. Now you have 2 loops in the same color on your hook. Now you take color 2: yarn over and draw color 2 trough both loops. That’s it, now you are ready for first stitch in color 2. I’ll show this with pictures too:

Tapestry crochet color change Tapestry crochet color change

And then you just crochet over the white yarn instead:

Tapestry crochet color change
Here I’ve already changed color to white again on the last black stitch.

Starting on a new row

When you turn your work to start a new row, you just turn the not-dominant-colors with you. And then crochet over them in the first stitch. They are easiest to hide if you always turn to the same side:




Adding a color

When you add a new color, you just lay it aligned the row you want to add it to and crochet over it. You should always add new color in the beginning of a row instead of in the middle, this also eliminates the “weaving of ends” in the end.
It’s easiest to show with pictures:

Tapestry crochet adding color
1. (I used 2 string of green because I didn’t have any green heavy cotton)
Tapestry crochet adding new color
2. Just crochet over the new color
Tapestry crochet color change
3. Keep crocheting over the new color until you need it.

Hiding the “turning strings”

When you are done you’ll have the none-dominant colors showing in the edges. You’ll also have the loose ends of the strings from when you added them.  To hide both (and eliminating those annoying “weave in the ends” we all hate) you just crochet along the edge all the way around. This is also when you add the loop in the corner so you can hang the tapestry crochet potholder in your kitchen for easy access.

Tapestry crochet edge
Before adding an edge

 

Tapestry crochet edge
Just crochet over both the showing strings and the loose strings

 

 Tapestry crochet potholder pattern

The finished tapestry crochet potholder i approx. 20 cm x 20 cm (7.8 in x 7.8 in)

I always just go by the chart I make in excel, but some will find it easier to read a pattern instead, so I will give you both.




Materials:

Crochet hook size 2.5 mm (UK 12)
(Yes this is very small for heavy cotton but since it’s a potholder you’ll want the stitches very tight!!!)
Yarn:
I used heavy cotton in red, white and black, and two strings 4-ply for the green. It is very important it’s 100 % cotton since synthetic materials will probably melt in high heat.
This is a great yarn for the project: Loveknittings Paintbox yarns

The chart:

I always start at the bottom and work my way up.

Tapestry crochet potholder chart

The pattern:

Abbreviations:
Sc: Single crochet (US term – Double crochet UK term)
Wh.: White
Bl.: Black
Rd.: Red (Or green)

Remember to chain one for turning:

Row 1: Chain 44 (+ 1 for turning)
Row 2-4: Sc in each
Row 5: Add black, 14 sc wh., 16 sc bl., 14 sc wh.
Row 6: 14 sc wh., 16 sc bl., 14 sc wh.
Row 7: 12 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 16 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 12 sc wh.
Row 8: 12 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 16 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 12 sc wh.
Row 9: 10 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 18 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 10 sc wh.
Row 10: 10 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 18 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 10 sc wh.
Row 11: 10 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 4 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 10 sc wh.
Row 12: 10 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 4 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 10 sc wh.
Row 13: 8 sc wh., 6 sc bl., 4 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 4 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 4 sc wh., 6 sc bl., 8 sc wh.
Row 14: 8 sc wh., 6 sc bl., 4 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 4 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 4 sc wh., 6 sc bl., 8 sc wh.
Row 15: Add red, 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 4 sc rd., 16 sc bl., 6 sc rd., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh.
Row 16: 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc rd., 16 sc bl., 4 sc rd., 2 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh.
Row 17: 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 4 sc wh., 18 sc rd., 4 sc wh., 2 sc rd., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh.
Row 18: 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 2 sc rd., 4 sc wh., 18 sc rd., 4 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh.
Row 19: 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 4 sc wh., 4 sc rd., 10 sc wh., 4 sc rd., 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh.
Row 20: 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh., 4 sc rd., 10 sc wh., 4 sc rd., 4 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh.
Row 21: 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 2 sc wh., 4 sc rd., 14 sc wh., 2 sc rd., 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh.
Row 22: 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh., 2 sc rd., 14 sc wh., 4 sc rd., 2 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh.
Row 23: 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc rd., 14 sc wh., 2 sc rd., 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh.
Row 24: 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh., 2 sc rd., 14 sc wh., 6 sc rd., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh.
Row 25: 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 6 sc rd., 14 sc wh., 4 sc rd., 2 sc wh., 2 sc rd., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh.
Row 26: 6 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 2 sc rd., 2 sc wh., 4 sc rd., 14 sc wh., 6 sc rd., 2 sc bl., 6 sc wh.
Row 27: 8 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 2 sc wh., 4 sc rd., 10 sc wh., 8 sc rd., 2 sc bl., 8 sc wh.
Row 28: 8 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 8 sc rd., 10 sc wh., 4 sc rd., 2 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 8 sc wh.
Row 29: 8 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 4 sc wh., 12 sc rd., 8 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 8 sc wh.
Row 30: 10 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 4 sc wh., 8 sc rd., 8 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 10 sc wh.
Row 31: 10 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 8 sc wh., 8 sc rd., 4 sc wh., 2 sc bl., 10 sc wh.
Row 32: 12 sc wh., 4 sc bl., 8 sc rd., 4 sc wh., 4 sc bl., 12 sc wh.
Row 33: 12 sc wh., 4 sc bl., 4 sc wh., 8 sc rd., 4 sc bl., 12 sc wh. Drop red
Row 34: 16 sc wh., 12 sc bl., 16 sc wh.
Row 35: 16 sc wh., 12 sc bl., 16 sc wh. Drop black
Row 36-38: Sc in each




Now you are at the end of the top row. Chain 20 a slip stitch to same top corner (for loop)
Crochet sc around the edge
When you get to the loop you chained before make 20 sc in the loop and slip stitch in the base of loop.
Fasten off and weave the end in.

 

Tapestry crochet potholder
Sc in the chained loop.

 

Tadaa! That’s it, the finished tapestry crochet potholder.

Hope you’ve enjoyed it.
I would love it if you would pin this pattern on Pinterest.

/Love Sara

You may not sell my patterns or claim them as your own. You may make items to sell (i.e. on Etsy, at craft fairs) from my patterns but I ask that you link back to my blog and provide credit for the pattern. You are welcome to share my patterns on social media so long as you link back directly to my blog post (providing the link). No copy & paste of my patterns will be allowed under any circumstances

 




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